Moxie Gardener

Petunias are one of the most popular flowers grown in both private and public gardens.

Petunias are one of the most popular flowers in urban home gardens, landscaped parks, and public areas everywhere. They are also featured in containers and hanging baskets in cities all over the country.

Petunias are also one of the newest garden flowers. They are native to South America and didn’t become well-known until the last part of the 19th century. It wasn’t until the 20th century that plant breeders began to select and breed them into the modern varieties we know today.

Petunias are collectively referred to today as Petunia x hybrida. They are thought to be a cross between Petunia axillaris (the night-scented white petunia) and Petunia integrifolia (a small violet-flowered variety). Petunias belong to the Solanaceae family, along with tomatoes, potatoes and tobacco.

New classes of varieties of petunias have continued to be released, with the latest big addition in the early 1990’s. There are now four main classes of petunias, suited to a variety of different uses, from garden specimens to ground covers to those with pendulous habits that cascade over the edges of window boxes or hanging baskets.

These classes of petunias include groundcover or “spreading” petunias, grandiflora petunias, milliflora petunias, and multiflora petunias. Here’s a short description of each:

Grandiflora petunias. These produce large flowers that are at least three inches across, and sometimes larger. They come in single- or ruffled double-flowered varieties. Most are upright plants that develop into large, foot-high mounds of flowers.

Groundcover or “spreading” petunias. This variety grows to only about 6 inches high, but spread rapidly to cover a very large area in a single growing season. They will quickly cover an area of several square feet and are ideal for use in hillside gardens where quick coverage is important. These spreading varieties are stunning planted in hanging baskets or window boxes because they cascade 2 to 3 feet over the edge of the container.

Milliflora petunias. These are compact, miniature plants producing large quantities of small perfect flowers that are only 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. They are perfect for the front of the flower border or in containers, especially those near the entrances of buildings, where the flowers can be enjoyed up close.

Multiflora petunias. This variety has the same growth habit as grandifloras, but they are more compact plants with small but more numerous flowers. Their flowers can be single or double,  but the majority of varieties are single. They make an eye-catching display massed together in a single color in the garden.

Petunias need at least six hours of sun a day to produce the abundant blooms for which they’re famous. They will grow in partial shade, but will produce fewer flowers. In the Deep South and the Southwest, petunias will be happier in partial shade.

Ageratum make good edging plants for flower beds or trailing over hanging baskets.

Ageratum, also called “flossflowers” are native to Central America and Mexico, although four species are identified as native to the United States.

The most commonly grown variety is Ageratum houstonianum. Ageratum is from the Greek “a geras,” which means “non-aging,” most likely referring to the longevity of the flowers.

The flowers are fluffy and available in lilac, pink or white, as well as the ever-popular lavender-blue. They spread in compound umbels, giving them a fluffy appearance, sort of like flattened pompoms.

Because most varieties grow less than a foot high, Ageratum are popular as edging plants or tucked into containers or hanging baskets. They bloom profusely from June until killed by frost. Although they prefer full sun, they are happiest with a little shade during the hottest parts of summer.

You can seed them directly in the garden but they won’t bloom until past midsummer. For earlier bloom start them indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last spring frost. The seeds need light to germinate, so sprinkle them on the seed starting medium and lightly press down with your hand.

Water from below by placing the starter pots into a larger container containing an inch or so of water. Remove the pots from the water when the surface of the seed starting medium looks moist. This keeps the seeds from being washed into the depths of the soil. Allow the excess water to drain and don’t let the starter pots sit in standing water. Remember: the seeds need light to germinate so they need to stay at or near the surface of the soil.

Flossflowers need warmth to germinate, so put the starter pots in a warm location, like on top of the refrigerator. The seeds will rot if the soil temperature is below 75° and they will be even happier at 80°. If you have difficulty providing these temperatures, set the starter pots on a seed starting mat or even a heating pad set to the lowest temperature and covered with a folded towel.

Once the seeds are germinated (in about 7 days) and they have two sets of leaves, you can grow them on at temperatures as low as 60°. Paradoxically, they need very warm temperatures to germinate but prefer cooler temperatures when in active growth. Go figure.

After hardening off, plant outdoors a week or so before your average last spring frost. Although they are frost tender, plants that are adequately acclimated to outdoor conditions and that have been growing in the ground for a week or so show some tolerance to light frosts.

Remove the faded flowers by deadheading to prevent seeds from forming. Ageratum can become rampant weeds when grown outside of their natural range.

Some species are used medicinally, although there is little data on specific uses or on its medicinal effectiveness. Ageratum houstonianum is known to cause liver damage or tumors if ingested.

Plant flossflowers near marigolds or any other yellow flowers for a stunning, eye-popping display.

Monarda flowers are edible and their unique minty taste is a welcome addition to summer salads.

Monarda or “bee balm” as it is more commonly known, has a place in American history. Colonists drank it after they dumped the highly taxed English tea into the Boston Harbor.

Commonly called bee balm because of its attractivness to bees, Monarda is also attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds.

A member of the Lamiaceae or mint family, Monarda didyma is the species historically used for medicinal purposes. Monarda contains thymol, which is an antiseptic. Native Americans used poultices of the plant for skin infections and the treatment of minor wounds. It was also used to treat mouth and throat infections, such as gingivitis. Thymol is used today as a primary ingredient in commercially manufactured mouthwashes.

The genus contains both annual and perennial varieties, with the perennial varieties most often grown in home gardens. They produce flowers at the ends of the stems in colors ranging from crimson, to red, to pink and light purple.

Plant bee balm in full sun and moist, well-drained soil. They can stand a little afternoon shade but flower production will suffer if they don’t get enough sun. You can start them from seed by scattering it in the garden after soil temperatures have warmed to about 70 degrees.

Because it needs to be divided every 3 to 4 years, Monarda is most often propagated by root division. Divide the plants in early spring and replant at least 18 inches apart for the shorter varieties and 2 to 3 feet apart for varieties that grow up to three feet high.

Monarda often is susceptible to white powdery mildew, especially if they don’t have enough room to breathe. If plants begin to show signs of mildew, start by removing the affected lower leaves, as this will sometimes prevent it from spreading up the plant. A strong spray of water from the hose followed by a good spray with a mixture of 1 part milk to 2 parts water can stop powdery mildew from spreading. Milk changes the pH of the leaves and prevents the mildew from adhering to them. Be sure to spray the undersides of the leaves as well. This can also be used as a preventive measure if sprayed weekly from midsummer on.

After the flowers fade, cut the plants down to within a few inches of the ground and they may give you another round of blooms in late summer.

Yarrow has been used medicinally for thousands of years.

Yarrow’s Latin binomial classification, Achillea millefolium, is named after Achilles of mythology, who reportedly used the leaves to stop the flow of blood of his soldiers’ wounds on the battlefield during the Trojan war.

It has been used in that context ever since.

Yarrow thrives even in poor soil but does best in full sun in sandy soil with good drainage. You can grow it from seed, root division or woody cuttings taken in spring. Space yarrow plants 1 to 2 feet apart to help guard against mildew, which is a problem when spaced too close together. Mildew is more prevalent in areas with high humidity. Destroy plants that are badly infected.

Yarrow is beneficial in the garden. It attracts Syrphid flies (also known as flower flies or hover flies). These are bright yellow or black and orange flies that resemble yellow-jackets. Harmless to humans, they consume large quantities of harmful insects, especially aphids. They feed early in the season when weather is too cool for other beneficial insects.

It also works as an activator to speed up the decomposition of compost. You only need about one finely chopped leaf of yarrow added to a wheelbarrow load of material for it to be effective.

Yarrow has a rich history in herbal medicine and folklore. It was used medicinally to treat colds, fevers, and even to lower blood pressure. It is also used topically to help bruises heal faster and to help varicose veins fade. A leaf applied to a wound will stop the flow of blood.

Its essential oil contains the anti-inflammatory azulene. Taken internally it reduces fevers, increases perspiration and relieves indigestion. It also soothes inflammed gums when used as a mouthwash.

Yarrow’s common name comes from the Anglo-Saxon word gearwe, which means to prepare or to be ready. One popular use of yarrow was to repel evil. Bundles were hung over doorways of homes or an infant’s crib on Midsummer’s Eve to bring good health to the occupants in the coming year.

The pollen of yarrow, along with other herbs, was found during excavation of a Neanderthal burial site, having been placed there 40,000 to 60,000 years ago.

Hollyhocks grow and thrive with very little help from the gardener.

Hollyhocks are one of those charming old-fashioned flowers grown by our grandmothers. They deserve a place in modern flower gardens, if only for their unusual upright habit that stands out among bushier perennials.

Native to Asia, it is thought that they are one of the oldest flowers in cultivation, grown by the ancient Chinese. Hollyhocks have been found in Stone Age burial sites.

They derive their name from the Old English holi (holy) and hokke (mallow). Another early name for the plant is “St. Cuthbert’s cole.”

The leaves were formerly used as  pot herbs or in salads, best collected in the cool of early winter.

Most hollyhocks are classified as biennials, but there are a few perennial varieties and even a couple of annual varieties. The perennials are short-lived though, often only living 2 to 3 seasons. They self seed readily and will reappear in the garden even years after removing the mother plants.

Sow seeds of hollyhocks in mid to late summer. The plants will return in spring and bloom the following summer. They like full sun and moist, rich, well drained soil. Barely cover the seeds and keep moist until they germinate. Cover the small plants before consistent freezing weather sets in.

Hollyhocks are susceptible to rust and indeed it is the most often heard complaint about them. Removing the two lowest leaves shortly after they appear sometimes helps keep the rust from attacking them. You may be able to contain the rust to the lower leaves even if it does appear. Another option is to plant shorter flowers near them to hide the rust-infected lower leaves.

Water from below and provide plants with a lot of space in which to grow and breathe. Treat plants with fungicide if you cannot tolerate looking at the rust. These measures will sometimes keep rust from attacking. If it does appear, remove the affected leaves and put them in the trash. Do not add to the compost pile.

Hollyhocks are sometimes found growing on abandoned farms or along roadsides. They also make good additions to cottage-style gardens. They grow to heights ranging from one foot up to nine feet. The taller ones work great in the back of the flower garden and the shorter varieties can be tucked in wherever the look of their spikes is desired.

A single zinnia, possibly Z. linearis.

Zinnias are native to the American Southwest and Mexico. They are members of the Asteraceae family. Its cultivars number in the hundreds since breeding and hybridizing begin in the 19th century.

The more familiar species is Zinnia elegans, which includes most of the Zinnia cultivars including double flowered types that grow from one to three feet high. Zinnia linearis grows into a smaller, bushier plant and usually has single flowers. It is also more resistant to powdery mildew than Z. elegans. Hybrids between the two species show this resistance on plants that have traits of both parents.

Zinnias are one of the most popular seeds planted in school gardening projects. The seeds are large enough for little fingers to easily handle and they germinate and grow quickly, blooming within a couple of months of sowing.

You can get a jump on the season by starting zinnias indoors under lights about 4 to 6 weeks before the average date of your last spring frost. Harden off plants gradually and transplant into the garden after all danger of frost is past, about the time you plant your tomatoes outdoors.

Zinnias like full sun and soil that is rich in organic matter but loose and friable with good drainage. Their native home is in sandy soil and they will not grow in heavy clay soils.

The scourge of zinnias is powdery mildew. All varieties can show signs of the disease with those in the variety Zinnia linearis a little less susceptible. Space the plants the maximum distance recommended for the type you are growing. Don’t water after noon as this lessens the chance of the foliage being wet after sundown. If possible, don’t water with an overhead sprinkler.

Remember to deadhead your zinnias by removing faded flowers and they will continue to bloom until killed by frost. They are often one of the last flowers whose blooms still look good when other annuals have faded.

Zinnias make wonderful cut flowers. They last for a long time and their wide range of colors make them compatible in arrangements with most other flower varieties.

The small varieties look charming cut with short stems and placed in tiny vases or antique china teacups. Set them in unexpected places throughout the house.