One method of intensive gardening utilizes a square foot grid with individual crops planted in each square.

Intensive gardening makes sense if you live in the city.  Small yards and urban forests can limit the size of your vegetable plot.  While you can grow a respectable amount of produce in a small garden, using an intensive gardening method can dramatically increase your yields.

Prior to 2007, for a variety of health reasons, I hadn’t grown vegetables for two years (it was agony!).   In 2007, I inherited a ready-made garden plot that had not been planted for several years.

Rather than take the time to amend the soil and plan my garden, all I did was pull the weeds.  I enthusiastically dove in and planted rows of vegetables and popped in a couple of herb plants.  At the last minute I scattered some green onion seeds in one corner of the bed.

The yields from that garden were respectable, but nothing to brag about.  Still, it gave us fresh veges grown by me.  I was back in gardening heaven.

When spring of 2008 came along, I did the same thing (at the time, my job was taking up twelve hours or more a day of my time).  I’m ashamed to say I didn’t even rotate my crops.  I just wanted to get the garden planted.  I was overcome with exhaustion due to too many things on my plate.

Midway through summer of 2008 I broke my arm, limiting my ability to do many gardening chores.

I have to report that my 2008 garden had the lowest yields of any garden I’ve ever grown.  In all fairness, we did have a cold, wet spring followed by a small drought at the beginning of summer.  Nothing can take the place of garden soil rich in organic matter.  It was the lack of rich, fertile soil that caused the decrease in crop yields.

For 2009, I’m resolving to amend the soil in all of my garden beds, old and new.  I also resolve to rotate my vegetable crops.  Finally, I resolve to plan my garden carefully.  The basic philosophy of intensive gardening is to grow as much as possible in a small space.  Planning companion and succession cropping is an integral part of putting this philosophy to work in the real world.

My goal in 2009 is to produce more vegetables from my small plot than I have in the past from much larger plots.

This should be interesting.

A brand new year and a fresh start in the garden.

It’s a new year and a chance for a new start in the garden.  Here are a few areas I hope to write about in 2009:

• This year I plan to return to intensive gardening. I use the square foot method, with a slight modification.  I’ll be sharing my successes and failures, along with a few things I’ve learned gardening with this method in the past.
• Fundamental to success in intensive gardening is improving your soil.  After last year’s disappointing yields, my garden soil is in dire need of improvement.  My goal is to improve the soil in my garden beds at little or no cost.
• One of my existing garden beds will be expanded and the other, primarily a flower garden with a few herbs thrown in, will get an entirely new planting scheme.  I also plan to add a narrow bed along the fence to hide the trash cans with a couple of rows of sunflowers.
• I gave up my seed starting shelves in a household move a couple of years ago.  Now that I have more room, I plan to purchase the components and put together another one.  I’ll start more of my own seeds, rather than purchase bedding plants.
• I’ll keep you updated on my progress at obtaining free or low cost seeds through seed savers exchanges.  Gardeners are so generous you can oftentimes get seeds for just a self-addressed, stamped envelope.
• I’m curious about the validity of planting and harvesting according to the phases of the moon.  I’ll be experimenting with this during the growing season.
• If I can find an available community garden plot, I plan to chronicle my experiences, successes, and failures while gardening away from home.
• Also on the agenda for 2009 is to review gardening sites, tools, catalogs, and miscellaneous gardening “stuff.”
• Finally, I’ll continue to spotlight individual plants in short, easy-to-read articles.  These articles are intended to be a general description of the plant or vegetable.  I’ll toss in a little background or trivia, along with general growing requirements for quick reference or to refresh your memory.

Most of all I want to share my experiences trying to grow as much as possible in my modest garden beds.  It does take effort, but the rewards are delicious.

Life is good in a garden.

I’ve been gardening for a long time.  I have to admit, though, that my record at keeping a garden journal is not good. I start out with good intentions (who doesn’t?), but somehow the record keeping aspect of gardening gets lost among the many chores of spring.  Then it’s summer and time to deal with the harvest, not to mention weeding.  Somehow my garden records end up being nothing more than a quick drawing of the beds with notations of what was planted where.

I have some rather detailed records of planting, growth, and harvesting in the form of garden journals, but only for two years in the 1990’s.  I have accumulated most of my gardening knowledge in my head.  I know now that this is a mistake.

This year I’m resolving to keep a journal of my gardening activities.  At the very least, I will record planting, germination, and harvest dates, along with specific varieties.  In the past, I’ve relied on the seed packages to keep track of the varieties.  This has had only limited success.

Because of logistics, I’ll be recording my garden stats in a hand-written journal.  If I break my leg or find myself with extra time on my hands, maybe I’ll transfer the data to a database.

The important thing is to record the stats.  You’ll probably be reading about it here.

Seed catalogs arrive earlier every year--no complaints.

A couple of seed catalogs came in the mail yesterday and another one came today.  I dug out the ones that arrived last week.  It seems to me that seed catalogs are arriving earlier than ever.

Seed catalogs used to come in January—something to look forward to after the holidays during the long, cold, dark days of winter.

I love seed catalogs.  They’re full of pictures and descriptions of seeds and plants, but they’re also full of possibilities.  And hope.  Hope is what gardeners need when the ground is frozen and the garden is covered with snow.

Seed catalogs have seen me through January, February and March with a minimum of “green thumb” withdrawal.  Before the Internet, they were the best source for information on growing plants, not to mention the place to find out about new varieties and their cultivation.

I’m glad seed companies continue to produce seed catalogs.  As much as I love the online environment, there’s something about the physical pages of seed catalogs that I find comforting.  I can write notes on the pages and compare offerings from several companies at once.

I know, I know, you can do all that online.  It’s not the same.  I can curl up with a catalog or two; much as I’ve tried, “curling up” with my laptop just isn’t happening.

Forgive my “low tech” comforts.

Garlic Chive seedlings satisfy my need to grow something this winter.

There is no winter garden in Minneapolis.  Nothing that is actually growing, anyway.  The ground is frozen solid, covered with several inches of snow and probably will be for another three months.

In fall when the days get shorter, I always mourn the end of the gardening season.  Somehow, I find myself going through the phases of grief, grieving for the loss of the actively growing landscape.

After the steamy nights of summer, the cool nights of fall are a shock.  Then, the warm days of fall lull me into a false sense of security.  Winter will not come this year.  Or if it does, it will be mild, mild, mild.  A severe state of “cold-weather denial,” plain and simple.

Each morning I ask for one more frost-free day.  So many crops near maturity.  Just a few more anomalous summer-like fall days.  I promise to be good, if only we have a few more hot, sunny days.

As the autumn cool-weather crops come into their peak of flavor, I feel a little guilty about wanting hot summer weather to continue.  Honestly, are we not sick of zucchini and eggplant?

When the first frost hits, I always feel a little anger at the loss of so many flowers everywhere in the city.  Why can’t their owners cover them?  We could enjoy them for a few more weeks of warm autumn days, if only they’d been protected from that early frost….

As the falling leaves pile up in my garden and make their presence known with my every movement, I feel a sense of unhappiness, even depression, at the loss of my garden.  The lush vibrancy it had this summer is no more.

Depression gives way to resignation as I realize that even the cool weather crops have stopped actively growing.

Finally, I accept the end of this year’s gardening season, but only after the ground freezes solid and snow covers my garden.

For the next three to four months, all growing is done indoors, preferably under lights.  This year the houseplants and overwintering Rosemary and parsley weren’t enough.  I planted seeds.  Garlic chive seeds, gathered from my garden in September.

They’ve already germinated and are doing quite nicely under my fluorescent lights.  I expect to snip off enough to sprinkle on a salad or soup in about two or three weeks.

I grow food because I can’t not grow food.  Even in December in Minneapolis.

Star of Bethlehem

When you think of seasonal Christmas plants what comes to mind?  Certainly not the Star of Bethlehem.  These hardy perennial bulbs, with their star-shaped white flowers and lance-like leaves, are a stunning addition to your Christmas decor.

Commonly called “Star of Bethlehem,” its Latin name is Ornithogalum arabicum, a member of the Hyacinthaceae family.  Star of Bethlehem is native to southern Europe and is hardy in Zones 4 through 10.  Star of Bethlehem grows 6 to 12 inches high and will do well in either sun or partial shade.

Like most other cold-hardy bulbs, Star of Bethlehem blooms in late spring from bulbs planted the previous fall.  The flowers last nearly two weeks and the foliage withers away by mid-summer.

Plant bulbs of Star of Bethlehem at a depth equal to three times their diameter, just like other spring blooming bulbs.

To force bulbs for bloom at Christmas, pot up in early-September.  Water well and store in darkness at a temperature of 35 to 50 degrees F. for 12 to 16 weeks.  In early December, move to a spot with indirect sunlight at a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F.  When the shoots turn green, expose to a comfortable room temperature (68 to 70 degrees F.) and more direct sunlight.  Rotate the pots so all receive equal amounts of light.  The buds will appear in 3 to 4 weeks.  When buds appear, move to more indirect light to prolong length of bloom.

Star of Bethlehem is a refreshing change from traditional blooming holiday plants.

Poinsettias

In America, no other blooming plant says Christmas like the poinsettia.  First introduced to the United States from Mexico in 1828, it is as much a part of Christmas as the tree itself.

In its native habitat in Mexico, poinsettias, or Euphorbia pulcherrima, reach the size of shrubs or small trees.

Poinsettias thrive indoors at comfortable room temperatures with bright indirect light.  Kept in these conditions and well watered, Christmas poinsettias can continue to look spectacular long past the new year.

It is possible to get your poinsettia to bloom again next Christmas, although it requires consistent attention (as in every day) for about six weeks in fall.  Ready to make the commitment?  Below are the steps to take to make your poinsettia bloom again next Christmas:

1. For the rest of the winter, keep your poinsettia in bright light and water when the surface of the soil feels dry.
2. Put your poinsettia outside in the shade for the summer, at the same time you move your houseplants outside.
3. It is a good idea to repot the poinsettia in a pot only slightly larger than the one in which it is growing, using indoor potting soil.
4. Prune the end of each branch to just above a leaf node.  This will cause the poinsettia to branch out and form a more lush plant.
5. Beginning in mid-September, the plant must receive twelve hours of complete darkness every night for at least six weeks.  Complete darkness.  The light from a city street light will cause the poinsettia to fail to bloom.  The best way to provide complete darkness is to put the plant in a closet or cover with a light proof box every night for at least twelve hours. During the day, put your poinsettia in bright, indirect light at comfortable room temperatures.  Also, cut down on the amount of water you give the plant during this time, but not so much that the leaves wilt.
6. At the end of October, or after about six weeks of total nighttime darkness, you should notice buds swelling at the tips of the branches.  You can now grow your poinsettia in normal indoor conditions, along with your other houseplants.  The buds will open to reveal tiny yellow flowers, and the red-colored bracts, which are actually leaves, will slowly emerge.

That’s it.  Not terribly difficult, but it does require dedication during those six weeks of nighttime darkness.  Why not give a try to cultivating your poinsettia to bloom again next Christmas?

Christmas Cactus

Seasonal plants, especially Christmas seasonal plants, are often thought of as “disposable.”  Not so the Christmas Cactus.  This plant is so long-lived that specimens often out-live their custodial gardeners.

Commonly called a “cactus,” Schumbergeras are actually an “epiphyte,” a plant that grows on other plants, much like orchids.  In their native jungles of Central and South America, Christmas cacti are often found growing in the forks of tree limbs in decayed leaves along with other natural debris caught there.

Schumbergera is the Latin name for the Christmas cactus, although it was formerly classified as Zygocactus.

When you get your Christmas Cactus home put it in bright light and keep away from drafts and temperature fluctuations.  Do not put your Christmas Cactus near a door that opens to the outside.

Don’t over water, but don’t let the soil dry out.  Either one of these conditions will cause your cactus to drop its flower buds.  Water when the soil in the top inch feels dry to the touch.  Do not allow your Christmas Cactus to sit in the water which drains into the saucer beneath its pot.

Christmas Cactus live for many years, as long as you provide the proper growing conditions.  About a month after it finishes flowering, prune your cactus (if desired for shape or size).  They do best when crowded in their containers so only repot every three years at the most.  The best time of year to repot Christmas Cactus is February through April.

When the weather warms up, move your cactus outside to a shady spot, similar to where you would summer your houseplants.  In September and October, grow in a room at about 50 degrees F.  Provide bright, indirect light during the day and total darkness at night.  Cover the plant with a box or place in a closet.  The plant must experience twelve hours of total darkness every night for six to eight weeks in order for flower buds to form.

Water sparingly during this time, but do not allow the soil to completely dry out.  Fertilize in late October or early November with a low nitrogen (first number) fertilizer.

Sudden changes in temperature, light levels, or moisture levels will cause Christmas Cactus to drop its buds.  Christmas cactus can also drop its buds if its soil dries out completely.

Christmas Cactus will re-bloom for you if you provide the right conditions for flower bud formation during autumn.  The rest of the year it makes a stunning hanging plant to add interest to your indoor garden.  It will likely outlast you and your houseplants.

Fingerling potatoes--a rare find at the farmer's market.

Fingerling potatoes are smaller than regular potatoes and are shaped like fat fingers.  But they pack a whole bunch of flavor into those chubby “fingers.”  Available in purple and red, but most often yellow—like Yukon Gold potatoes—fingerling potatoes have a buttery flavor and waxy texture that make them perfect for salads and hot dishes.

Members of the Solanaceae family, fingerling potatoes’ Latin name is Solanum tuberosum.  They are native to the Andes Mountains in Peru, as are the more familiar, regular sized potatoes.

Fingerling potatoes are grown just like regular potatoes with an exception.  Don’t try to harvest them for “new potatoes,” in mid-summer—they won’t be large enough.  Wait the full 90 to 120 days potatoes take to mature, or until the vines start to die down in early fall, then harvest as full-sized (for them), mature potatoes.

Cut pieces of “seed potatoes” for fingerlings smaller than you would for regular potatoes.  Cut into pieces weighing approximately one ounce and that contain at least two “eyes.”  A pound of fingerling seed pieces will produce about 20 pounds of fingerling potatoes.  That’s more than twice the yield of regular potatoes.

Plant pieces of “seed potatoes” 4 to 6 inches deep and 18 inches apart in rows 36 inches apart.  Fingerling potatoes need loose, deep, sandy soil that has been improved with additions of compost, organic matter, and/or manure.

About 3 to 4 weeks after the sprouts emerge, hill up the soil, leaving only the top third of the sprout above the soil line.  Hill up again two to three weeks later, and keep repeating until flowers appear.  At that time, mulch soil with 4 to 6 inches of straw or other organic mulch.

Provide consistent moisture; even a brief dry period will produce smaller, misshapen tubers.  To control disease and fungus, water potatoes with a soaker hose rather than a sprinkler or other overhead method.

Fingerling potatoes are just as easy to grow as regular potatoes and they taste better and produce more.  Considering their premium prices at the supermarket and farmer’s market, they’re well worth growing in the home garden.

Butternut squash

Butternut squash has the tastiest flesh of any type of winter squash.  It lasts the longest in storage, too.  In fact, most canned pumpkin in the United States is actually butternut squash.  I use the fresh version, pre-baked of course, to make my “pumpkin” pie.

Butternut squash, classified botanically as Cucurbita moshata, are native to South America but have been spread around the world by humans.  Butternut squash are grown everywhere except the far northern areas of Europe, Asia, and North America.  The summers are too short and not hot enough for the squashes to fully mature in these areas.

Butternut squash mature in 80 to 110 days and cannot be planted until after all danger of frost is past and the ground is thoroughly warmed up.  They grow best in hot weather and will stop growing if you plant them too early and a late cold spell hits.

Butternut squash need well-drained, rich, fertile soil.  They don’t like excessive amounts of water but need regular watering throughout the growing season.

Plant butternut squash seeds in hills spaced 5 to 6 feet apart in all directions.   Plant 4 to 5 seeds per hill and thin to the strongest 2 to 3 plants.  For semi-vining or bush varieties, decrease the spacing to 3 to 4 feet apart in each direction.

Cultivate shallowly to keep weeds down until the vines become more robust.  The large leaves of butternut squash vines will control weed growth once the season is well underway.

Harvest butternut squash when the stems dry out and the squash have a deep, rich color.  Leave a two inch piece of stem on each squash to prevent disease organisms from entering the interior of the squash and causing premature decay.

Harden off butternut squash for about two weeks at temperatures above 68 degrees F.  After that, store in a dry, airy place between 45 and 60 degrees F.  Stored under these conditions, butternut squash will keep for six months or more.